The fashion industry has been labeled as “not ethical†for a long time, but things have improved since last year.
The Swedish fast fashion H&M Group hopes to become more and more corporate-responsible as a means to break through the development dilemma of fast fashion. H&M recently announced that it will join the ASOS, Boohoo and Missguided camps. This season's swimwear catalogue will no longer be retouched for female models. Whether it's fat, obesity, spots or hair, it will retain its original appearance. H&M said the move aims to promote the natural beauty of women.
Nowadays, the slim model has no longer been used to reach a consensus in the industry, and large-size models and big-code bloggers have become new industry trends. Rihanna's lingerie brand Savage x Fenty also uses large size models in its ads to reflect the importance of diversity.
During the fall/winter 2017 fashion week, model rights issues have caused an uproar in the global fashion industry. Luxury brands such as Balenciaga, Lanvin, Hermès and Elie Saab have been pushed to the public opinion by the hiring of casting companies to abuse models.
In April last year, American casting director James Scully abused models on social media Instagram to accuse his peers Maida Gegori Boina and Rami Fernandes, once again alerting the industry to see the glamorous appearance of the model industry, there are many undisclosed or recognized The fact that people are not happy.
According to James Scully, when he was arranging for Paris Fashion Week, he heard several models complaining about the inhuman treatment of the Balenciaga 2017 autumn and winter fashion show audition, saying that Maida Gegori Boina and Rami Fernandes closed about 150 models on the same day. Nearly three hours in the dark stairwell, and the lights of the entire building were turned off at lunchtime, the mobile phone became the only lighting tool for the models, and the mental condition of many models was affected afterwards. While accusing the incident, he also mentioned that the casting companies of Maida Gegori Boina and Rami Fernandes also had cooperation agreements with brands such as Hermès and Elie Saab. In order to avoid inhuman treatment, some models even gave up for these brands. Opportunity.
It is worth noting that James Scully's article also mentioned that some brands will also make unfair demands on models during audition, and also enable models under the age of 18, and named Lanvin to ask the casting company not to hire colored people. .
Then in May, the 20-year-old Danish model Ulrikke Høyer published a long article "LV feels too fat" on social media Facebook and Instagram, causing many netizens to sympathize and support. Ulrikke Høyer revealed in the article that the selection of this big show Director Ashley Brokaw felt that she was slightly swollen and asked her to drink water only 24 hours before the show. Eventually she did as requested, but Ashley Brokaw still kicked her out of the catwalk list before the show. The post received more than 60,000 likes and more than 4,300 comments.
After a series of model abuses exposed during last week's fashion week, the model's health and rights became the third group to be noticed during the fashion week, except for designers and star bloggers. In September last year, LVMH Group and Kaiyun Group cooperated for the first time to jointly develop the Model Work Relationship and Health Protection Program to prevent models from affecting physical and mental health and provide a good employment environment for models. The program promises that each brand will hire a psychologist or a counselor during the model work, and will make working hours rules for models aged 16-18.
A spokesperson for the two groups said that the two sides hope that through this alliance, they will be able to play a leading role in other brands and even the entire fashion luxury industry. In the future, the brands of these two groups will carry out more strict monitoring and restriction on the physical health and age of the models, and will no longer employ models that are underweight, thin and less than 16 years old.
Subsequently, the French government also issued a decree stipulating that since October 1 last year, all the models used for commercial purposes such as advertising in magazines, online, posters and catalogues have been post-processed by software. Whether the effect is more slender or full, you must attach the words "picture modified". The offender may face a fine of 37,500 euros or about 280,000 yuan.
Getty Images adjusts the requirements for the gallery image, and no longer accepts the model image of the body part after the repair software is processed. Earlier, France promulgated regulations that the picture of the commercial use of the model's figure after retouching must be marked with the words “retouchedâ€. This move to some extent prevented the misleading of the show pictures to the model and the public. This phenomenon has indeed improved after the popular models of anorexia and thin skin that have been frequently transmitted in previous years have attracted public attention.
In February of this year, the new German government also announced that it will launch a policy to combat various commercial advertisements that have been influenced by thin models. It is reported that German President Merkel said that he will focus on solving specific health crises in the next ruling plan, and plans to take measures to curb the growing problem of anorexia in young women, especially for those who use unrealistic beauty standards. Do advertising.
According to survey data, from the 2017 autumn and winter fashion week, the proportion of large size models and ethnic minority models is on the rise. The old model on the Simone Rochas show, the large size model on the Chritian Siriano show, and the African-American models on the Marc Jacobs show make model diversity a trend. There are also more related model casting companies in the industry, bringing models with diverse figures to the T-station. The trend of amateur models set by brands such as Vetements has also brought the diversity of models to the T-stage.
On the other hand, some analysts believe that H&M announced that it is not because of the pressure of “super fast†fashion e-commerce such as ASOS, which is exerting pressure on traditional fast fashion brands in terms of commercial efficiency and corporate ethics. ASOS has been particularly active in promoting ethical fashion.
Earlier this year, ASOS announced that it will launch models of different sizes of the same clothes to help consumers better purchase products. This new initiative will help to bring consumers closer to ASOS and more in line with brands. A concept that is more inclusive for diverse bodies.
However, some analysts pointed out that in addition to giving consumers the correct value orientation, attracting traffic and increasing sales are the ultimate goal of these brands. Critics believe that H&M's sustainable fashion marketing for many years is inevitably suspected of “Green Washâ€, which means that the company intends to establish a sustainable image, but it does not actually take sustainable action.
In addition to model rights and the establishment of correct values, fashion brands face many moral dilemmas. The Fashion Transparency Index is launched annually by Fashion Revolution, a fashion industry NGO. The report selects the world's 150 largest apparel brands and ranks them according to the social responsibility and environmental protection policies and achievements announced by the brand. The survey criteria are comprehensive, including equal trade, labor welfare, wages, empowerment, gender equality, corporate responsibility, and Environmental sustainability, etc.
Not long ago, some women reported that women workers in Southeast Asian clothing factories still faced a working environment full of sexual harassment and violence. Observers believe that although the fashion industry has gradually made some progress, it has not been enough in terms of corporate ethics.
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