1. In recent years, the demand for color fabrics in the international market is no longer a common product such as bars, squares, or oxford fabrics. It is a high-end fabric that pursues novelty, fashion, and individuality. In response to this demand from the international market, we have developed and produced linen dyed fabrics. This kind of fabric is rich and varied in color on the cloth surface, and has a uniform bamboo-like (rain-like) effect. The fabric has a strong three-dimensional effect and unique charm. After a reasonable post-treatment process, the fabric feels smooth and drape. It is an ideal fabric for high-end women's clothing because of its excellent sex and anti-wrinkle properties.
2 product design
The choice of raw materials
Flax fiber is called “Queen in fiber†and is the only bundle fiber in natural fiber. It has a natural spindle-shaped structure and a unique pectin beveled hole, resulting in excellent breathability, hygroscopicity, and refreshingness. Sexuality and hygroscopicity make linen fabrics able to breathe naturally. At room temperature, the body's actual temperature drops by 4~8°C. It has a reputation as a natural air conditioner. According to the market research, product structure and style requirements, we have selected 36Nm (21Ne) long-staple yarns produced by the Harbin Flax Factory. The yarns have less hemp, fewer grain heads, and good quality, which can ensure the quality of fabrics.
Table 1 Comparison of the performance of flax fibres and other fibres (temperature 20.c, relative humidity 65%)
fiber
flax
raw cotton
Mulberry silk
Polyester
Eyeball
Vinyl
Regain rate
12-13
7-8
8-9
3.5-5
1.2-2
4.5-5
Product specification
The fabric we designed is mainly used for women's wear in spring and summer and is a relatively thin fabric. Therefore, a fine 36-ply yarn is selected. The specific specifications are as follows:
Warp and weft 36Nm x 36 Nm linen
Warp and weft density: 72 x 68 pieces/inch
Warp tightness: 55.5%
Zonal tightness: 52.4%
Total tightness: 78.8%
Fabric Organization: Plain
Width: 57"/58"
Total number of roots: 4140
2.3 Process flow
Warp yarn: bobbin yarn → hank yarn → hank yarn dyeing → sizing yarn → winder → slitting warp (wax) → threading a → weaving →
Weft: Yarn → Skein → Yarn Dyeing → Winding
Gray cloth acceptance → Finishing → Finished product inspection → Storage
Segment dyeing process2.4 section dyeing process
According to the market demand and the use of fashion colors, we have designed four color combinations. The color matching method is shown in Table 2.
Table II
The dyeing of the linen yarn imitates the dyeing of the yarn, and the same hank is dyed with two or more different colors at the same time. The segment dyeing method is similar to the fabric printing method. In order to make the dyed portion non-permeating, the dye is formulated into a colorant and is printed on a skein by a segment dyeing machine.
Because the linen yarn has waxy, hemp and other impurities, it must be subjected to scouring and bleaching before dyeing. Cooking and bleaching process should pay attention to the amount of alkali, too much easy to reduce the strength of linen, too little impurity removal effect is not ideal, affect the segment dyeing effect and cloth quality. After the scouring and bleaching of the flax yarn, the hairiness is not less than 8cm/30min and the PH value is 7-8. The effect of the sizing is too low to affect the penetration of the colorant, resulting in poor dyeing; too high and prone to osmotic, unclear outline, affecting the pattern of the fabric.
The choice of dyes is dye segment dyeing and reactive dye segment dyeing. After many tests, the use of reactive dyes for flax varieties is better than that of paints, mainly because the reactive dyes have good color fastness, good hand feel, and good dry and wet rub fastness. We use Taiwan-made dyeing equipment, steaming equipment in the baking room.
The formula is as follows:
Sodium alginate paste 350 g
Urea 10g
Anti-stain salt S 5~10g
Hot water 350g
K-type reactive dye Xg (according to the shade of color)
Baking soda 20g
water
Process flow: hank → printing section dyeing → steaming (100°C, 5~10min) → washing → drying → sizing
Process points:
(1) When steaming, wrap the yarn with a dry cloth to prevent osmosis.
(2) The algae pulp is medium-viscosity to enhance permeability, and 0.3% sodium hexametaphosphate can be added when the slurry is adjusted to prevent the influence of calcium ions, and the pH is adjusted with soda ash = 7-8.
(3) Urea plays a role in wetting and solubilizing, and it is appropriate to add some dark colors, and it is unnecessary to add light beige or light brown.
(4) Baking soda as an alkali release agent should be added only when the temperature of the paste is lowered to room temperature. Otherwise, a large number of air bubbles are generated in the paste and the stability is degraded, affecting the color amount and the color fastness.
(5) The dye dissolution temperature does not exceed 90°C.
2.5 Sizing Formula
Warp sizing is mainly coated with sizing, and soaking is supplemented with 828 modified starch as the main sizing agent. The slurry formulation was as follows: 828 modified starch 20 kg, PT 2 kg, sizing cream 2 kg, softener 16 kg. The entire volume is calculated as 600 liters. Baking room temperature should not be too high, generally not more than 80 °C is appropriate. 80% dry yarn is appropriate for the baking room.
2.6 flower design points
To form a more uniform rain-like effect on the cloth, the arrangement of the flowers is very important. When we first tried weaving, all the warp yarns were dyed with yarns. The result was a very cluttered cloth. After several trial weaving, we fully contrasted the effects of different cloths. Finally, the following yarn arrangement was used to achieve the desired results. Effect.
Warp arrangement: 4 backgrounds, 1 dyed yarn
Weft arrangement: 15 bases, 1 dyed
The base yarn is dyed with a general yarn dyeing method, and the dye length of the yarn dyeing section is about 3 inches.
3. Difficulties in production technology
Since the 36Nm yarn is a relatively fine variety in the linen yarn, the weft and weft density of the fabric is also relatively large, so the weaving is difficult. The unique properties of flax yarn: poor elasticity, uneven strips, and dyeing partially reduce yarn strength, resulting in further reduction of weaving performance. We have successfully produced this product by optimizing the process for each step.
3.1 Preparation process
The winder uses a 1332M winder and the knot knot must be small.
The warping uses SHGA215/C type warping machine. The machine has the function of refueling or waxing when combing the yarn. The machine speed is 250 rpm/min., the machine speed is high and the breakage rate is high, and the beam forming quality is high. Poor, using a variable frequency motor, the flatness of the warping is better, using sizing oil to add water at a ratio of 1:2.5 evenly on the warp beam when combing, so that the friction of the warp yarn can be reduced, and it is beneficial to the flax The moisture of the yarn improves the weaving efficiency.
3.2 Weaving process
Weaving uses the Italian super-excellent Tenma 11 rapier. The linen yarn is extremely elastic and has many hairiness, and the opening is not easy to clear. The variety has a large warp and weft density, and is a plain weave. The beating resistance is relatively large. Large warp tension is applied without affecting the end of the warp yarn to make the shed clear. The height of the rear beam should adopt a high height of the rear beam. Due to the combined effects of the brittle weft yarns on the upper and lower layers of warp yarns and the friction force generated by the steel wefts to promote the weft yarns, it is particularly easy to break at very low strength details. When the back beam is high, the upper warp yarn tension is reduced, and the warp yarns are subjected to The friction is small, and the possibility of breaking the weft thread and its details is greatly reduced. At the same time, the higher backrest process makes the upper warp yarn tension less than the lower warp yarn tension, resulting in the relative relaxation of the upper warp yarn tension, is conducive to tighten the weft yarn, clear the winding road, the cloth is tight and full. The backrest height we use is +3.5.
With a larger opening stroke, in order to make the opening clear, the excessive tension of the upper warp yarn caused by the high back beam is compensated to cause the opening to be unclear and a hop point is formed. The opening stroke increases to 30 mm.
In addition, weft yarns for dyeing linen should not use only one weft pick for weft, but should be divided into two or three weft picks for weft, so that the dyed part of the yarn is dispersed, and the rain-like effect of the fabric is evenly distributed and does not build up. Disordered cloud shadow.
4, finishing process
According to the performance of the fabric to determine the main process followed by finishing: desizing → softening → wrinkle → shrink.
Desizing: The desizing temperature should be higher, the pulp should be removed as much as possible, and the pulp should be de-slurried with α-amylase. The main advantage of the desizing is that it does not damage the fabric fibers, does not change the color of the original fabric, and has good gloss and feel. .
Softening: Silicone soft treatment, to fundamentally improve the feel. Adding a proper amount of amino 305 silicone oil increases the softness of the linen fabric.
Anti-wrinkle: Linen fabrics are prone to creases during use, so we have wrinkle-removed them. Anti-wrinkle finishing should pay attention to environmental protection requirements, formaldehyde content to meet the exporting country standards. The resin finishing agent produced by Germany BASF company has a good anti-wrinkle effect and the formaldehyde content does not exceed the standard.
Shrinkage: Through the stretching effect of the rubber blanket, the fabric is squeezed and retracted to determine the shrinkage of the fabric and maintain the dimensional stability of the finished product. The shrinkage rate of the fabric requires that the shrinkage rate of the Tumble Dry according to the US standard should not exceed 3% after three times.
5 Conclusion
Through the research and development of this variety, we have accumulated some experience in the dyeing of woven linen fabrics. The key to the weaving of the linen dyed fabric is the control of the dyeing length of the dyeing section. The dyeing of the section can be designed as a single color, two-color or more, and achieve different fabric bicolor or multicolor imitation bamboo-like effect. We designed a series of fabrics for the factory to obtain a large number of orders and achieved good economic benefits.
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