The fashion derived from the museum: the mighty cultural station team

After waiting for more than two months, the beauty blogger Quan Zhixian finally received the "Nanhe Pajamas" launched by the variety show "Upper New Palace" before the year.

She belongs to the "Running Water" program of "The New Palace". After the first program was broadcast, Amway gave the program to more than 80,000 fans in Weibo. In the second phase, the new pajamas were designed by Zheng Chengyuan, a student of the Central Academy of Fine Arts. They were inspired by the Changying Pavilion in the Forbidden City and the men’s costumes in the Qianlong period. Quan Zhixian was quickly attracted to the pajamas of the crane pattern, and the order was decisive.

Pajamas were pre-sold through the Taobao crowdfunding model. Because it was the top 100 customers, Quan Zhixian became the first lucky one to receive the real thing.

Selling museum fashion derivatives

In the month after the program was aired, the number of people in the pajamas series with the theme of “Fuhe (Bag Crane) Good Voice” has reached 17,000, and the amount of crowdfunding is close to 10 million. There are too many people to raise funds, and consumers who are late in the order can only wait until the year later to receive them.

The crane pajamas were classified by the netizens as “the end of the money-robbing series”. There are many other cultural and creative products in this series, such as the Forbidden City lipstick, such as the “Dunhuang Poetry” launched by Tencent Wenchuang and the Dunhuang Research Institute. Without exception, they all gained a lot of heat on social media.

Xianhe pajamas, Forbidden City lipstick and Dunhuang silk scarves belong to the museum's cultural and creative products. Since the inauguration of Wenchuang products in the Forbidden City in Beijing in 2013, more and more museums such as Guobo, Subo, and Hebei Museum have joined the Wenchuang army. The domestic museum Wenchuang also ushered in an unprecedented development in 2017.

At the end of 2018, the fashion products of fashion categories such as pajamas, make-up and silk scarves were “exploded” in China.

Many people have found that the products around the museum are not only creative, but also very fashionable.

The “Dunhuang Poetry towel” was produced by the user through the WeChat applet DIY. On the first day of the online launch on December 27, 2018, more than 60,000 netizen DIY works were produced. As of January 23, 2019, there were 2.8 million users participating. . They exchanged their DIY designs on Weibo and Douban, and they also expressed their love for Dunhuang culture.

Weibo and Xiaohongshu also appeared in a large wave of the Forbidden City pajamas and the Forbidden City lipstick, the beauty of the blogger @智智's party sister made the Forbidden City makeup open box video on the B station continued to dominate the list, get nearly a million broadcasts The fashion blogger @飞仔 Joey's Forbidden City lipstick evaluation video was transferred more than 60,000 times in just a few days.

Quan Zhixian bought both the princess of the Forbidden City and the series of makeup of the cranes produced by the Forbidden City Taobao. At the same time, she bought a set of "Floating the Sea - Cranes" series including lipstick, blush, highlight and eye shadow.

Forbidden City Taobao "Floating the Sea - Crane" Makeup Series Source: Forbidden City Taobao

Her current job is the host of Yangzhou TV. Because she likes traditional culture, historical and cultural programs such as "New Palace" and "National Treasure" have become one of her favorite programs.

Before buying pajamas, she often buys tapes and other cultural products from the Forbidden City Taobao. "I really like the traditional elements. The red walls of the building, the cornices and the window grilles, the cranes and the clouds of the costumes, I feel particularly good."

From Weibo and Xiaohongshu's netizens, it is not difficult to find that many people who bought the Forbidden City pajamas and the Forbidden City makeup have a similar mentality with Quan Zhixian: Most of them are young women who like Chinese traditional culture and are willing to Supporting the Forbidden City in the way of purchasing Wenchuang products, I purchased the Wenchuang products of the Forbidden City or other museums before. When the fashion products of the fashion category came out, they were always purchased in the first batch.

In her opinion, the most important thing for fashion writers is the high value of the face. "The newest "Forbidden City" sold the best is pajamas, in fact, not the most creative, mainly the high value of the face." Decided to start the whole set of cranes makeup, but also because the shell looks good, even if you receive the real thing for a month I haven't had time to open it, but as long as she buys her hand, she is satisfied.

However, just looking good is not enough for her to save money, "it still needs to be practical. Some products are always bought and used. If such practical products add some special elements, people will want to buy more.

The person in charge of Tencent Wenchuang Dunhuang Scarf Project introduced the interface fashion. The choice of Wenchuang product category determines whether it will be recognized by the public. The demand for the category of silk scarves is relatively high, and the acceptance of users is higher. .

More specifically, among the more than 2 million Dunhuang silk scarves DIY participants, the number of male users exceeds the number of female users, reaching 53.6%. They are probably male users who decide to send a girlfriend or wife a gift in the new year. .

In addition, the relatively reasonable pricing is why many people are willing to buy.

The DIY Dunhuang silk scarves produced by Tencent Wenchuang are priced at 199 yuan each. Many netizens who are on Weibo and Douban have expressed similar ideas: 199 yuan, can't buy a loss, can't buy it, and Hermes has thousands of yuan. Compared with silk scarves, the price of Dunhuang silk scarves is very conscience, not to mention the great value of Dunhuang culture.

"Scarves can be expensive if they are to be done, such as Hermes's scarves," said the head of Tencent Wenchuang on the interface fashion. "But considering the general public can accept, we have made corresponding plans on the price, pricing comparison Close to the people."

In addition to scarves, the price of fashion products is generally not particularly high. There are a total of 6 products in the Forbidden City series of cranes. The price is 600 yuan. Quan Zhixian feels very acceptable. The price of the Imperial Palace pajamas is 399 yuan, and the price of silk is 1499 yuan. Many people think that the price is high, but many people think that the price is the price.

The high level of discussion on social media is what makes some of the “passers” choose to buy.

Like Quan Zhixian, Xinglu is also the first consumer to receive pajamas from the Forbidden City. She didn't watch "The New Palace", and she didn't pay much attention to the museum. She found this hot product on the Weibo hot search list. "Look at it on the hot search, and there is the trustworthy IP of the Forbidden City, don't worry about being deceived, just buy it."

In Stars' view, the marketing of fashion-based Wenchuang products is quite good, but it can be stronger. "China's cultural output has not been as strong as other countries. In recent years, it has finally come to awaken. Now it is also the time and place. When people are in a good time, don’t increase the propaganda and wait for it. After all, the wine is also afraid of the alley.”

Overseas, the British Museum, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York (hereinafter referred to as MET), and the Museum of Modern Art in New York (hereinafter referred to as MoMA) have many years of experience in developing art derivatives, and are also the first to use the art and culture resources of museums to create clothing, accessories and other fashions. Pioneer of the product.

From their precedents, Quan Zhixian felt that the museum's bones were fashionable.

Wenyuan Wenhua is the exclusive authorized and operator of the British Museum, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A Museum) and other cultural and artistic IP in China, through the exclusive purchase of IP and further development. Signed the museum's art and cultural resources for exclusive operations. In the view of Pinyuan Wenhua, museums with rich cultural and artistic resources have a natural advantage in developing fashion products.

“The museum collects excellent things from the past and the present, recording the culture and fashion of the year,” explains Lecong, director of business development and IP development of Pinyuan, explaining the interface fashion. “Well is a reincarnation, and now the popular models are often The secondary design of classic elements decades ago."

In the fashion industry, many big-name designers look for design inspiration from the history and culture of hundreds of years ago. In 2018, the "Sacred Body" that broke the record of MET's exhibitions was shown by John Galliano, Riccardo Tisci, Raf Simons, Christian Lacroix and other famous designers who were inspired by history and religion.

The theme of the 2019 New York Metropolitan Museum of Art Charity Ball (Met Gala) is "Camp: Notes on Fashion", from the 1964 article "Note on Camp" written by American writer Susan Sontag. "Camp" is commonly known as the Camp wind, meaning "presented in a flamboyant way." Gorgeous, illusory and extravagant are the embodiment of the Camp.

The Camper wind can be traced back to the era of Louis XIV in France. It has appeared in all ages of Western fashion history. Today, the Camper wind adds some modern interpretations to the style of the year. Designers such as Jean Paul Gaulter, Thom Browne, and Jeremy Scott all have Campbell's work, and Gucci in the Alessandro Michele era also has a strong Campbell color.

Alessandro Michele era Gucci's Camp wind source: Hollywood Reporter

The British Museum and the Metropolitan Museum of Art have a rich library of art and culture resources, and of course there are many collections historically related to Camp. “The museum has a collection of popular elements hundreds of years ago, and we can dig out the fashion of the collection itself.” Le 炜 told the interface fashion.

The British Museum, the V&A Museum and the Boston Museum of Art, which are now collaborating with Wenhua, have launched Wenchuang products in the second half of 2018. In 2019, in the next stage of IP development, these museums will begin to introduce fashion products such as precious metal jewelry and handbags.

Among all the cultural products of Wenyuan Wenhua, although the fashion products are launched late, the growth rate and performance are very good. At present, half of the sales in all products account for half of the total.

From the perspective of IP operating companies, Leyi believes that the clothing, handbags and other products launched by the museum are not limited to the scope of museum cultural and creative products, but can be used as fashion products with artistic value to compete in the entire fashion market.

Leyi introduces the interface fashion, and the future source Wenhua will make the museum around the museum into a fashion lifestyle commodity, rather than a cultural and creative product. “Fashion creation is the future direction.”

The mighty cultural station team

In other words, the fashion of Wenchuang products is not only the future of the cultural and creative industry, but also the future direction of the fashion industry. When you are what you wear, the motto of many young people, clothing, jewelry and handbags have gradually become the externalization of lifestyle.

For those who love art or are keen on traditional Chinese culture, wearing clothing with artistic value or national style can clearly and effortlessly express their attitude towards life.

Many clothing and beauty companies have realized this, so they have started to cooperate with the museum IP.

The men's wear brand Mark Huafei has launched the “Fantasy Journey” series of clothing in cooperation with the British Museum. Leyi said to the interface fashion that the brand hopes to reach new and art-loving consumer groups through the museum IP, and hopes to attract old customers through authorized cooperation. .

Mark Huafei British Museum Cooperation Series Source: hereinuk

Beauty brand MAOGEPING Mao Geping recently also launched the Qiyun Oriental series in cooperation with the Forbidden City. This set of cosmetics authorized by the Palace Museum draws inspiration from traditional utensils, costumes and jewellery. Honey powder cakes, eye shadow trays and blush products from the shell to the make-up The design inside the plate is very "the Forbidden City." From the product evaluation, it can be found that many consumers have not purchased Mao Geping's makeup before because they like to buy the Forbidden City IP and Guofeng design for the first time, and those consumers who are originally fans of Mao Geping are also very happy to buy the brand's special offer. commodity.

Although the museum has rich artistic and cultural resources and great creative space, it is not easy to extract suitable elements from the mass collection, carry out secondary design, and make consumers accept.

Taking Dunhuang silk scarves as an example, in order to unearth the mural elements that are both representative of Dunhuang culture and the applicability of silk scarves, the Tencent project team has been frequently visiting Dunhuang since the beginning of 2018. After the initial screening, a huge classified material library has been established. Finally, it extracted 8 theme elements including three rabbits, nine-color deer, suzaku, phoenix bird, rebound cockroach, lion, canopy and crane, and more than 200 mural details.

Song Shuang is the project leader responsible for the overall cooperation between Tencent and Dunhuang Research Institute. Since the establishment of strategic cooperation between the two parties at the end of 2017, she has led different teams to Dunhuang research and study almost every month, ranging from one week to half a month. . After a whole year, Song Shuang spent almost half a year in Dunhuang.

In addition to the DIY silk scarves, Tencent Wenchuang also launched two designer silk scarves with the designer team of Rococo Loker. They took Dunhuang symbols such as the nine-color deer, the flying sky and the Silk Road after their inspection in Dunhuang. Design and follow-up production services are provided by Suzhou Yitang Silk Brand.

Song Shuang said to the interface fashion that the back-end industry chain such as production, distribution, logistics and after-sales is also the key guarantee for the successful incubation of Wenchuang products. Only by doing the back-end services, the design ideas of fashion-based products can be obtained. Maximize the implementation.

Especially for skin care products, make-up and other cultural and creative cross-border products, it is not enough to have a high value, and consumers have requirements for product quality.

The Forbidden City Taobao Crane series, which was purchased by Quan Zhixian two months ago, has been discontinued all the time. It is less than a month away from the shelves. “It’s just out of print,” and the makeup has become the most controversial Wenchuang product in the history of the Forbidden City. .

The Forbidden City Taobao said on the official Weibo that the original series of makeup still has a lot of room for improvement from appearance to internal quality. Therefore, it is decided to stop production and improve continuously. The pre-sold orders will be delivered in the spring after the year.

Quan Zhixian is very satisfied with the appearance of the Forbidden City Taobao makeup, but has not yet opened it. I don't know how the quality of the product is. In fact, there have been many evaluations on Weibo, B Station and Xiaohongshu. The bloggers have mixed opinions on this series. Most of the negative evaluations come from the products themselves.

Many consumers said that the eye shadow of the Forbidden City Taobao makeup is not delicate, it is difficult to smudge, and some of the colors have a "flying powder" phenomenon after makeup. In addition, the color of the blush is not high, and the color of the eye-catching eye shadow is not enough.

The exquisite five-color ink lipstick produced by the Forbidden City Taobao has gained more negative comments. Many people have reflected that the overall packaging is too "plastic" and some are cheap. Among the five-color lipsticks, there are two more natural bean jelly and crimson lipsticks, and the other three are lip balm, blue gold and indigo. Fashion blogger @飞仔 Joey painted a blue lipstick in the evaluation video and said to the camera: "Is this color something? I will never take it out of the door."

According to public information, the Forbidden City Taobao makeup lipstick is manufactured by Copolymer Biochemical Technology (Kunshan) Co., Ltd. (hereinafter referred to as Copolymerization), and the foundry company of Blush and Eyeshadow Products is Shanghai Ou Run Cosmetics Co., Ltd. (hereinafter referred to as Shanghai Ou Run) ).

Co-biochemical is also the foundry of L'Occitane skin care products. Other partners of Shanghai Ou Run include domestic make-up Mary Yijia and Meikang whitefly. Shanghai Ou Run said in a video interview with Pear that “the quality of the product is not good, but the Forbidden City proposes new requirements and new considerations.”

Zeng and the Forbidden City Taobao lipstick came out of the "嫡庶 嫡庶 ” 的 的 的 的 文化 文化 文化 文化 文化 出 出 出 出 出 出 , 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘 淘There have also been some doubts. Some consumers said in the small red book that the design of Runbaiyan Palace Palace lipstick is not innovative enough. The appearance and the Tom Ford lipstick attached to the Forbidden City tape are no different. "Since someone took the Forbidden City tape and put Tom Ford's lipstick, it has never been. Jump off this idea."

After the star reveals the princess of the Forbidden City, the enthusiasm that has been soaring has cooled down. If she does not look at the added value of culture, she thinks that the fabric of the crane pajamas is not worth 399 yuan. It is only because of the addition of the IP of the Forbidden City that she feels that she is not so bad.

"The fashion creations of the Forbidden City are afraid that the quality can't keep up. In that case, you can only buy and sell a hammer. You can buy one, for example, I will restore my reason now." Star Lu said to the interface fashion.

Despite this, there are still fans of the Forbidden City like Quan Zhixian who will continue to support the museum.

After many netizens and bloggers expressed their disappointment with the Forbidden City Taobao lipstick, fashion blogger @Bee哥哥哥 sent his own evaluation on Weibo. "I don't think there is much room for ridicule. We are also deeply responsible for love. Look forward to a better product next time."