Clothing Materials Science-----Basic Knowledge of Clothing (Continued 8)

(5) Medium and long fiber fabrics

1. Medium and long fiber fabric features

Medium and long fiber refers to a fiber between the hair type and the cotton type chemical short fiber. It is not a new chemical fiber variety, it can be processed from various chemical fibers, and its length and fineness are between cotton fiber and wool fiber. Therefore, there are long fibers in the viscose, strong medium and long fibers, and medium and long fibers such as polyester, nylon, nitrile, c, chlorine, and vinylon. The characteristics of various types of chemical fiber medium and long fiber fabrics are summarized and the following conclusions are drawn:

(1) Medium and long fiber fabrics have good elasticity and are not easy to wrinkle when worn.

(2) The medium and long fiber fabrics are thick and firm, and have a full hand feeling. After repeated washing, they can still maintain the characteristics of smoothness and new hairiness.

(3) The medium and long fiber fabrics have a smooth feeling, and the shrinkage rate is small, and it is not easily deformed after garments.

2. Medium and long fiber fabric varieties

Medium and long fiber fabrics have many varieties of colors, mainly polyester-nitrile, polyester-viscose blended fabrics and "three-in-one" fabrics.

(1) The medium-long polyester/nitrile fabric is blended with a polyester/nitrile ratio of 50:50 or 60:40. For example, the polyester-nitrile blend has a long hidden strip, which has a hairy feel, and the cloth body is crisp, wrinkle-free and hot, and is a mid-range spring and autumn. The ideal fabric for the jacket selection.

(2) Polyester-bonded medium-length fabrics are blended with a polyester/viscose ratio of 55:45 or 65:35. For example, the polyester-viscose blended medium-length plain weave has similar style characteristics to the above-mentioned hidden strips, and is also a kind of imitation that is popular among the public. Hair products, commonly used to make spring and autumn outerwear.

(3) “Three-in-one” fabric is made of polyester, nitrile and viscous medium and long fiber blends. The fabric has the characteristics of three kinds of fibers, and the price is moderate. It is suitable for suits, jackets and trousers.

(6) New chemical fiber fabric

1. Characteristics of new chemical fiber fabrics

The so-called new chemical fiber fabrics should be attributed to the above-mentioned various types of fiber fabrics in consideration of raw materials. However, because these fabrics show unique novelty in terms of appearance, processing characteristics and wearing performance, they are listed separately so that we can better understand and use them. The new chemical fiber fabric has the following characteristics:

(1) Fiber has a new structure and novel physical and mechanical properties.

(2) Fabrics made of silk with different fineness, shrinkage, and cross-sectional shape composed of heterogeneous components, which have a unique appearance, feel and special taking properties. These heterogeneous filaments include air network filaments, twisted textured filaments, fancy heterogeneous filaments, cored filaments, and wrapped elastic filaments.

(3) The trend of multi-functionalization is obvious, suitable for special industrial use, and more suitable for taking textiles, especially fashion materials.

2. Variety of new chemical fiber fabrics

Due to the modification and deformation processing of chemical fiber, the variety of new chemical fiber fabrics is increasing. Here, some of the more popular varieties on the market are explained, in order to broaden the horizon and grasp the fashion trends.

(1) Acetate fiber fabric: It is called acetate fabric. It is made from cellulose fiber such as natural wood. It is a man-made cellulose fiber. Its many properties are similar to viscose fiber. The difference is that elasticity is better than viscose. Therefore, the garment made by the same has good dimensional stability and is not easy to wrinkle.

(2) Lycra fiber fabric: also known as Lycra fabric (LYCRA), is an elastic fiber fabric first introduced by DuPont, namely spandex fabric. The use of a small amount of Lycra fiber can make the garment style last for a long time, and can achieve the good drape performance that can not be achieved by conventional stiff textiles, so it has become a new hot spot of apparel fabrics. At present, Lycra fiber fabrics have been widely used in the fields of clothing, swimming and sports, especially in the hosiery and tights market.

(3) "Rosie" fiber fabric: transliterated from "RAYON". It is a kind of viscose fiber fabric, its processing method is unique, and the fabric has a shiny and luminous color effect, so it becomes a very good fashion fabric.

(4) Triacetate-polyamide-like wool fabric: a deformed heterogeneous silk fabric composed of a triacetate textured yarn and a polyamide core yarn, which has a very good appearance and a wool-like effect, even more than a combed wool fabric, on the garment. It is getting a wide range of applications.

(5) Tencel fiber fabric: It belongs to the popular environmentally friendly “green fiber” fabric, and is the trade name of industrially produced Lyocell fiber. A new type of regenerated cellulose fiber manufactured by AKZO in the Netherlands and authorized by Courtaulds, UK. Its fiber morphology and processing are similar to those of synthetic fibers, thus combining the excellent properties of fiber and natural fiber. It has similar comfort to cotton fibers and is much stronger than cotton and viscose fibers due to its strength and polyester. The garments produced are very good in shape retention and drape.

Section 4 Other Apparel Fabrics 1. Knitted Apparel Fabrics Apparel fabrics can be divided into woven fabrics, knitted fabrics and non-woven fabrics depending on the textile process. The garment fabrics described above are woven fabrics in which the warp yarns and the weft yarns are vertically interwoven, and the knitted fabrics are different from those in which the yarns are formed into loops by knitting needles and the like. Knitted fabrics have always been used to make underwear due to good elasticity, extensibility and softness. However, with the development of textile science and technology and the improvement of craftsmanship, as well as the transformation and renewal of people's ideas, today's knitwear has passed from the past. The underwear has been developed into outerwear. At the same time, knitted fabrics have also been widely used in decorative articles, industrial dust filter cloths and medical and hygiene products. All of this shows that knitwear materials are developing rapidly and their varieties are extremely diverse.

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